Kota Bharu's (Kelantan) colourful central market
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One of the highlights of any visit to Kota Bharu, Kelantan’s engaging capital city, is its atmospheric central market. Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah may not look much from the outside, but inside it is a true feast for the senses. As an added bonus, the sprawling complex is located right in the heart of town.
The octagonal central hall of Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah - which is best viewed from the first floor - is probably the most attractive market space in Malaysia. The glass roof ensures that the characterful scene is bathed in light.
As well as having great views of the central hall, the first and second floors contain an Aladdin’s cave of stalls, offering everything from tupperware to clothes. Who needs malls when you have markets like Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah?
The market is named after the Islamic prophet Muhammad’s first wife, Siti Khadijah, in recognition of the vital role played by female traders. It was formerly known as Pasar Besar Buluh Kubu (Bamboo Fortress Big Market).
The only depressing feature about the market is the availability of eggs from endangered sea turtles. The eggs are a local delicacy, but conservationists say the trade is contributing to the steep decline in turtle numbers.
Although the central hall is dominated by fresh fruit and vegetables, some stalls also sell meat, with chicken being particularly popular. One of dishes most associated with Kelantan is ayam percik (spicy marinated grilled/barbecued chicken).
A whole section of the ground floor is given over to fish and other marine produce, a reminder of how close Kota Bharu is to the coast. Much of this bounty is landed at Tok Bali, a port some 50 kilometres away.
Dried fish also plays a big part in local cooking, as is soon evident from the number of stalls which sell nothing else. The most common type is the intensely flavoured ikan bilis (salted anchovies).
Some of the foodstuffs are rather less easy on the eye, like keropok lekor, a sausage made from crushed fish and flour. It is generally eaten deep fried with a spicy dip, and tastes a lot better than it looks!
If gazing at all that fresh and dried produce makes you hungry, then the market has an excellent food court on the first floor. It’s one of the best places to eat in Kota Bharu, with prices as friendly as the welcome.
As well as having great views of the central hall, the first and second floors contain an Aladdin’s cave of stalls, offering everything from tupperware to clothes. Who needs malls when you have markets like Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah?
The various food stalls compete for the most tempting array of dishes, and offer a great way to try out Kelantanese specialities, from rich, aromatic curries, to super-sweet desserts.
